Não Olhe Pra Trás – Do Not Look Back

Nem tudo é como você quer
Nem tudo pode ser perfeito
Pode ser fácil se você
Ver o mundo de outro jeito

Not everything is as you want
Not everything can be perfect
It can be easy
If you see the world in another way

Escolha uma estrada
E não olhe, não olhe prá trás

Choose a road
And do not look, do not look back

CAPITAL INICIAL - Não Olhe Pra Trás – Do Not Look Back

Português is a beautiful language

Music In The Park

Greeting friends,

To wrap up on the “C” of Cost I would like to share some prices and ideas based on my experience.  While most things cost less in Ecuador some items are more (e.g. computers, TV), this is due in part to the import tariffs.  When looking across all items I have concluded that in general  it takes about 1/3 to live in Ecuador as in the States.  So for example if your living expenses in the States are $3600 a month then they would be around $1200 here.  As I have said before a lot really does depend on your specific lifestyle.  Here is a look at some specific items.

Bus Terminal

Transportation:  It is very economical and easy.  Buses leave the terminal every few minutes and you can pretty much flag a bus down anywhere.  Taxis are also usually easy to get, there are a couple of cab stands in town and of course you can flag one down.

Bus:

Cota – Otavalo: .25, 6 miles 15 minutes

Cota – Ibarra: .45, 15 miles 35 minutes

Cota – Quito: $2.00, 60 miles 2 hours

Taxi:

In town: $1.00

Otavalo: $5.00

Ibarra: $12.00

Cuicocha Lake: $5.00

The prices have stayed the same the last two years.

Municipal Building

Other items:

Men’s haircut: $2.00

Manicure: $2.50

Dr Visit (Basic): $5.00

Cardiologist Visit: Examination, Lab Results Review, EKG, Consultation: $50.00

MRI: $200.00

Gas: $1.48 gallon

Lunch (tipico) $2.50

Nicer Lunch (a la carte) $4.00-8.00

Queen Bed (pillow top mattress, box) $400.00

Beer (Pilsner, 24oz) .90 cents

Toilet Paper (4 rolls) .99 cents

Snickers Bar .99 cents

House Cleaning 1/2 day: $10.00

Local Cell Phone – I buy $6.00 at a time.  My average cost is about $10.00 a month.

International Phone – Skype: Free computer to computer, $5.00 month unlimited calls to phones in U.S. and Canada.  More places adding WIFI.

Imbabura

For more expensive items such as a laptop and specialty items I would suggest bringing them with you.  In conclusion when it comes to cost I think they are quite reasonable.  You seem to get a lot for your money.  While the prices have gone up on some things; the services, infrastructure and options continue to get better.

 Next up the second “C” – Climate.

Till next time,

Vá com Deus

No 95

Total Views 40,850

I wish I knew how it would feel to be free
I wish I could break all the chains holding me
I wish I could say all the things that I want to say
Say ‘em loud say ‘em clear
For the whole wide world to hear

One love, one blood
One life, you’ve got to do what you should
One life with each other
Sisters, brothers

One love but we’re not the same
We got to carry each other, carry each other

LIGHTHOUSE FAMILY – I Wish I Knew How It Would Feel To Be Free/One

(Today’s song compliments of a reader, Thanks Bob!)

Cerro Cotacachi In Clouds

Greetings friends,

Today I will continue to look at Cost with a focus on Housing.  Housing cost is important since it usually represents the largest living expense.  When possible I like to use first hand experience/information.  For housing I will use my apartments as examples since it they are based on my first hand experience.

To buy or rent is one of the first questions when it comes to housing.  The answer really does depend on your personal situation.  My perspective is to rent first to make sure that Cotacachi is where you want to be.  It is easy to get swept up in the beauty, easy pace, low-cost and friendly people.  These are all great benefits however you need to consider other factors such as it is a smaller town and as such has fewer choices in things like restaurants, grocery stores, etc.  Otavalo (pop 50,000) is 6 miles away, Ibarra (pop 130,000) is 15 miles away which offer additional choices.  How long to rent again really depends on your situation.  I would say after a couple of months you can really get a good feel for the area.

Upon arriving many people stay at a Hostel/Hotel of which there are several in town.  The most economical are $8-10 per person a night, mid-range  $16-20, upper $30-40, of course you can go all out at  the La Mirage Garden Hotel and Spa (only Relais & Chateaux hotel in Ecuador) for $350-800 a night.

La Mirage Garden Hotel and Spa

For longer term rent I would say the range is from $300-750 (you might be able to find a room to rent or small studio for less).  Just like anywhere else you get what you pay for.  An unfurnished studio apartment will be much less than a new furnished 3 bedroom 2 1/2 bath house in a gated community.  Generally speaking I think you could apply the 3:1 rule when it comes to the cost of renting.  Meaning a comparable place in Cotacachi is about 1/3 the cost of in the U.S.  Again this is just a guideline for reference.   You also need to compare apples to apples; furnished, utilities, internet, etc.  For example, my updated 2 bedroom 1 bath fully furnished apartment including all utilities and internet in a nice area rents for $400 a month.  In comparison a nice unfurnished 2 bedroom apartment in Denver is around $950, if you add $200 for utilities and internet you are at $1150 not including furniture which could add a couple hundred more per month which puts you are in the 3:1 range.  I think it would be similar for a furnished house with utilities, $600-700 in Cotacachi , $1800-2000 in the states.

Furnished Apt Living Room

Furnished Apt Kitchen

As far as buying a home, I think a good place to start is to look at Micky Enright’s Cotacachi Real Estate Listings to get an idea on options and prices.

Till next time,

Vá com Deus

No 94

Total Views 40,191

You know that I am hanging in your hands
so do not let me fall
You know I am hanging in your hands.

Cuidado, cuidado

Careful, careful

CARLOS BAUTE & MARTA SCHANCHEZ – Hanging In Your Hands

Andean Mist

Greetings Friends,

I would like to start the review of the 3C’s by looking at Cost.  Today the focus will be on the Cost of Food.  First though a few words about today’s song.  I always try to draw a connection between the song and the article (at least in my own mind).  This connection is that I heard this song while I was buying food.

So there I was a few months ago picking up some groceries at the new Tia store in Cotacachi when I heard this song that immediately caught my attention.  It was captivating, great rhythm with wonderful lyrics in clear crisp Spanish.  I could pick out some of the words like corazon (heart), so I started on a quest to find the song.  As is turns out it is an immensely popular song by Carlos Baute and Marta Sanchez with over 97,000,000 views on youtube!  It just goes to show that there is an entire world out there beyond the borders of the states.  One of the benefits for me about living in a new place is learning and experiencing new things like this song.

Cotacachi Market

The good news is that if you like fresh fruits and vegetables they are very economical here.  However imported American/Global brand products can be expensive (e.g. Ruffles Potato Chips 12 oz $3.25).  My approach: Buy the local produced products as much as possible and stay away from the imported processed foods.  Not only is it more economical but healthier.

My routine is to go to the SuperMaxi store in Ibarra on Friday’s to buy meat (10% off on Friday) and other items that are hard to find in Cotacachi.  Then on Sunday go to the Cotacachi market to buy fruits and vegetables when there is the largest selection and freshest items.

Here is a list of current prices for some common items.  Your monthly food cost really does depend on your specific eating habits and preferences.

Broccoli (large) .50 cents

Carrots (7 large) .25 cents

Lettuce (med) .25 cents

Radish (19 large) .50 cents

Cauliflower (med) .35 cents

Eggs (9 med) $1.00

Potatoes (5 lbs) $1.00

Apples (10 small) $1.00

Strawberries (1 lb) $1.00

Chicken Breast – $2.63 lb

Hamburger 6-7% – $2.40 lb

Raisins – $1.44 lb

Peanut Butter (9 0z 250 g) $3.50

Whole Wheat Bread (24 oz 680 g) $2.30

Veggies From Market $3.50

Till next time,

Vá com Deus

No 93

Total Views 39,182

The only baggage you can bring 
Is all that you can’t leave behind 

You’re packing a suitcase for a place none of us has been 
A place that has to be believed to be seen 

Walk on, walk on 
Leave it behind 
You got to leave it behind 

U2 – Walk On

Cerro Cotacachi

Greetings friends,

With the beginning of a new year it seems like a good time to provide an update on the reasons I picked Cotacachi, Ecuador as a place to live.  The reasons are still the same, the 3Cs: Climate, Cost and Culture however now with a couple of years experience I can provide more detail about each reason.   Over the next several weeks I will look at each reason in depth, providing as much detail as I can.  First up will be Cost, specifically looking at Food.

Relocating to a new place outside your home country is a big move that involves many considerations.  While it can cause some anxiety and uncertainty it can also be a very rewarding experince and an adventure of a lifetime.  For me,  Ecuador has several factors that make it a realtively easy place to relocate to.

For example:

- Close To The States:  It is a 4 hour flight from Miami to Quito.  

- Currency is based on USD, no currency conversions needed.

- Relatively low resident visa requirments: $800 a month for retirement and $25,000 for investment.

- Spanish language – Relatively easy to learn and a lot of exposure in the states.

- Smaller country that you can get your mind around.

Till next week,

Vá com Deus

No 92

Total Views 38,075

I realize the best part of love is the thinnest slice
And it don’t count for much
But I’m not letting go
I believe there’s still much to believe in

So lift your eyes if you feel you can
Reach for a star and I’ll show you a plan
I figured it out
What I needed was someone to show me

Lost in love and I don’t know much
Was I thinking aloud and fell out of touch? 
But I’m back on my feet and eager to be what you wanted

AIR SUPPLY – Lost In Love

Our home in Cotacachi

Greetings Friends,

Today is my precious Eliane’s birthday and in her honor I would like to share our story which spans across Ecuador, Brasil and the United States.  So please join me is wishing this very special person happy birthday.  She is currently in Brasil and will be returning to me in Ecuador in 2 weeks.  Next week I will start a detailed “Ecuador Cost of Living” series.

Cayambe Valley, Ecuador

Me (United States) – I was a burned out Corp Executive who had lost my way and had become out of touch with who I was.  My identity was all tangled up in what I did, not who I was.  The wake up call came when I thought I has having a heart attack in 2008 which turned out to be an anxiety attack because of stress.  I was literally working myself to death, and for what?  So they could write “He was a good corp manager” as my epitaph.  Lying in the ER, I realized that there had to be a different way.  So began my journey to find peace and myself again which ended up in Cotacachi, Ecuador.  I fell in love with this magical place rediscovering who I was and starting a new chapter of my life.  Everything was here, except for someone to share it with.  So with some trepidation I decided to join a Christian singles website for a 3 day trial period.  Even though I had worked in the high tech world managing global virtual teams, I was old school when it comes to personal relationships.  I wrote about wearing my favorite Bible verses on my back when I run marathons as a reminder of where my strength comes from.

Her (Brasil)  She grew up in Campo Grande, Brasil, near the frontier of Paraguay and Bolivia.  Her family was one of the first ones to settle in Campo Grande.  She spent a lot of time on her grandfathers ranch growing up.  (BTW way her Grandfather still has a small farm 1,000 acres with cattle, he will be 90 in March).  When she was 21, her father an Executive Pilot was tragically killed in a plane crash.  She was attending college but had to stop because of expenses and to help her mother.  Later she went to live in Japan for a few years then returned to Brasil and completed a degree in Physical Education becoming a professional personal trainer.  She has a gift for languages (she speaks six) and helped as a translator when American mission workers came to the Pantanal area of Brasil to provide medical services.  This is also how she met and became friends with the author John Grisham.   A friend of hers convinced her to join the same Chrsitian Singles Website for a 3 day trial, which just happened to be the exact same time I joined.

Being a personal trainer, she noticed I ran marathons and sent me a simple message “Ola Americano come run a marathon in Brasil”  And so I did, we fell in love and as they say the rest is history.

So you see, I had to go deep into the Andes of Ecuador to find a jewel in Brasil.  The world is full of hope and beauty you just have to have faith and reach for the stars.

Vá com Deus

No 91

Total Views 37,537

HUEY LEWIS AND THE NEWS – Heart and Soul

A friend is someone who knows the song in your heart, and can sing it back to you when you have forgotten the words - unknown

Friendship is the golden thread that ties the heart of all the world - John Evelyn

Remember, the greatest gift is not found in a store nor under a tree, but in the hearts of true friends Cindy Lew

Greetings friends,

One of the New Years traditions in Cotacachi is to greet your friends and neighbors with “Felize año” and then hug each other.  What is important though is how you hug.  You do it so the left side of your chest touches the left side of their chest.  So it is literally heart to heart.  There is something special about this, it is done with intent which adds significance not just a casual going through the motions hug/greeting.  It reminds me of how much of our life can be lived just drifting along almost sleep walking.   How different would a hug be if you knew it was the last time you would ever see the person?  That is how I want to live my life, on purpose and with intention.  Life is simply to valuable not to live with purpose.  Even if you live far from family and friends you can make a heart to heart phone call or email.  What a great way to start a new year, heart to heart on purpose.

Neighbor - Vecino

Vá com Deus

No 90

Total Views 36,997

For Dan

Burn baby burn! Burn baby burn! Burn baby burn! Burn baby burn!
Burnin’!

I heard somebody say

Burn baby burn! – Disco inferno!
Burn baby burn! – Burn that mama down
Burn baby burn! – Disco inferno!
Burn baby burn! – Burn that mama down
Burnin’!

THE TRAMMPS – Disco Inferno

Waiting To Burn

Well friends the lyrics of the song pretty much sums up the idea behind New Year’s Eve in Cotacachi, “Burn Baby Burn”.  For the finale they literally burn effigies all over town representing the bad things that happened in 2011.  What a great philosophy, cleanse the old, burn it and let it go and meet the future with a fresh start.  What’s past is past, no need to hang on to it.  One of the great things about living in a new place is embracing a new culture and learning and growing from it.  As a friend of mine said, “In life you are either losing ground (dying) or learning and growing (living).”   This New Years Eve was a fun and great new experience, unlike any I have had in the past.  So click the youtube link and enjoy the story. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_sY2rjxq6M&feature=related

Preparing For The Fun

During my Saturday morning run I began to notice a number of small huts made out of Eucaplytus branches on the streets in front of houses and businesses.  Later as I was walking by one and stopped to take a picture, one of the young men explained that it was tradidtion to build the structures, dress up in costumes and make effiges that represent the bad things that happened during the year which would be burned just before the New Year started.  By Noon you could feel the energy building, in addition to all of the huts going up, streets were being blocked off as each Barrio began to prepare for their own party.

Parade #1

By 3:00 PM things were really getting cranked up.  There was not one but two parades going on at the same time in town.  Now everywhere you went there was something going on and music playing and you could not help but get  swept up in the excitement.

Parade #2

At 6:00 PM I headed downtown to meet my friends now things were really hopping.  In front of each hut, kids would lay down a rope in the street and as each car or person came down the street they would raise it  and ask for a toll.  People would give them change which was all part of the festivites.  I had to go through four tolls just to get to leather street.

Taxi with effigy

Leather Street

I ran into the daughter of my good friends that own a Hostel in town and was invited to their Barrio party.

24th of May Barrio Party

On New Years Day there were all of these small piles of ashes from the burnings the night before.  It was a memorable time.

New Years Day ashes in the street

Vá com Deus

No 89

Total Views 36,303

Go placidly amid the noise and haste, And remember what peace there may be in silence. As far as possible without surrender be on good terms with all persons. Speak your truth quietly & clearly; and listen to others, even the dull & ignorant; they too have their story.

Avoid loud & aggressive persons, they are vexations to the spirit. If you compare yourself with others, you may become vain & bitter; for always there will be greater and lesser persons than yourself. Enjoy your achievements as well as your plans.

Keep interested in your own career, however humble; it is a real possession in the changing future of time. Exercise caution in your business affairs; for the world is full of trickery. But let this not blind you to what virtue there is; many persons strive for high ideals; and everywhere life is full of heroism.

Be yourself.

Especially, do not feign affection. Neither be cynical about love; for in the face of all aridity & disenchantment it is perennial as the grass. Take kindly the counsel of the years, gracefully surrendering the things of youth. Nurture strength of spirit to shield you in sudden misfortune. But do not distress yourself with imaginings. Many fears are born of fatigue & loneliness. Beyond wholesome discipline, be gentle with yourself.

You are a child of the universe, no less than the trees & the stars; you have a right to be here. And whether or not it is clear to you, no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should.

Therefore be at peace with God, whatever you conceive Him to be, and whatever your labours & aspirations, in the noisy confusion of life keep peace with your soul. With all its sham, drudgery & broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.

MAX EHRMANN – Desiderata

Cotacachi Sunrise

Greetings friends,

For this last article of the year I would like to talk about the idea of defining who we are.  Something that has really struck me by spending time outside the states is the approach people take in defining who they are and how it contrasts with what I have experienced.

For example in the states when you meet someone for the first time invariabley the first question after being introduced is “What do you do?”  This always seemed like a very normal question to ask and one I would answer and ask the same.  It was not until getting out of the U.S. paradigm and experiencing life in different places that I began to see the differences which is not so focused on one’s occupation but on other aspects of  life.  Also, the conversations do not seem to be so  dominated by discussion of work.

While what you do as an occupation is important it only defines a portion of who you are.  For example, if you are retired does that really change who you are?  Another one is “stay at home mom/dad” that somehow does not seem to hold the value of a paid occupation, yet is one of the hardest and most important things you can do.

Please don’t misunderstand me, what you do for an occupation is significant and where you invest a lot of your time but it is only part of the picture.  The Deisderta says “Keep interested in your own career, however humble; it is a real possession in the changing future of time.”  For me it is a matter of keeping what a person does in perspective and realize it is only part of the complete picture of who someone is.  One of my new year resolutions is to strive to see the complete picture of who people are.

Imbabura

Feliz Año Nuevo

Vá com Deus

No 88

Total Views 35,634

Where I am, what I am
What I believe in

Sing a song
Sing a song of songs
Sing it out
Sing it strong

Yeah! Yeah!

Call the sun in the dead of the night
All the sun gonna rise in the sky
Touch a man who can’t walk upright
Touch a lame man, he’s gonna fly
And I fly
And I fly

Holly holy love
Take the lonely child
And the seed
Let it be full with tomorrow
Holly holy

NEIL DIAMOND – Holly Holy

Nativity Scene - Cotacachi

Greetings Friends,

In this final installment of the Cotacachi Two Year Review series I turn the focus inward and explore the changes that can occur within one’s self by living in a place like Cotacachi.  This is something I did not give much thought too before arriving but yet has been profound.  In talking with people who have moved here I have also heard similar experiences to my own.  So here are some ways Cotacachi has changed me.

Christmas Parade, Cotacachi

Getting Real:  More than anything has been this sense of what is “real” in life.  I am more aware of the simple reality of life.  This is just something very authentic about this place.  When I am walking the streets with a fresh wind blowing, clouds dancing on the mountains, children running and laughing I am living in the moment, the color of life is vivid and I am connected.

Appreciation:  This is a biggie.  Everyday here I am reminded how fortunate I am.  As my friend said “When you see a 75 year old barefoot woman carrying a heavy bundle on her back getting on the bus, your problems all of the sudden seem very small”  I spend less time thinking about material possenions and more time being thankful for things like health, family and friends.

Slow Down:  It is hard to gain a perspective on how fast you are going until you get an opportunity to slow down.  It has taken some time to realize that everything does not have to be done right now.  It is also a lot less stressful when it is not always “go-go”.  After all, what really is the hurry?  So I have learned to slow down and mellow out.

The Little Things:  It has been nice to notice and appreciate the little things in life.  I usually go to the ATM early in the morning and find my self along side the children walking to school, all of the sudden I am transported back in time to my childhood when I walked to school and remember what it was like to be a child.  I hear their laughter as they talk and run with their friends.  Yes, I do notice the trees swaying in the breeze, church bells ringing and butterflies in the air.

Simplify:  I have come to realize just how little I need and wonder why in the world I bought all of the material things I did.  There is something very freeing about getting rid of all of the material stuff.  The things I have now are the things that are very useful to me, like a laptop for example.  There really is something to be said for a simple life.  Things like Skype and email make it very nice to be connected, the key is to control the technology not let it control you.

Giving:  A little goes a long way here.  Even a small gift makes a difference.  Last year a friend of mine bought shoes for two daughters of a single mom.  That was their Christmas and they were so happy as they walked around in their new shoes.  A common gift here which I think is very cool is a plastic bucket filled with staples.  This is very practical and helpful and inspired me to make up “gift buckets” for my construction crew which came out to $10 each and I know will be genuninly appreciated.  I have noticed many people who move here find ways of giving which is very inspiring.

Christmas "Gift Bucket"

Feliz Navidad

Vá com Deus

No 87

Total Views 35,152

One love - Un amor
One blood - Una sangre
One life -  Una vida
You got to do what you should - Usted consiguió hacer lo que usted debe
One life – Una vida
With each other - Con uno a
Sisters - Hermanas
Brothers - Hermanos
One life -  Una vida

U2 – One

Beautiful Day In Cota

NOTE:  I craft each article to integrate the Music, Photos and Words and hopefully create something meaningful.  Part of my process is to play the music for inspiration as I write the article.  For example, now I am listening to this version of “One” which is a great version because the lyrics are subtitled in both English and Spanish.  My vision is that as you read the story you are also listening to the song.

So here we are, near the end of another year, they go by so fast.   And yes, the older I get the faster they go.  So NOW is the time, it’s all you got baby and it is fleeting, so “you’ve got to do what you should” plain and simple.

Today I would like to talk about the changes in the ex-pat community over the past couple of years.  First though to set some context Cotacachi has more or less 8,000 residents.  To make the math easy let’s say there is around 240 expats or 3% of the population.  So yes, if you walk the streets of Cota there is a good chance you will run into some ex-pats and hear some English which is nice, however there are not so many that it will not have significantly change the culture which is also a good thing.  It goes back to balance.

If you choose to make your home in a new place like Cota I belive that you have the responsibility to be a good neighbor.  This means, learning to speak the language (even if it’s a little, trying goes a long way), respecting and learning the culture and using your experience and talents to help.  Over the past couple of years I have seen many examples of ex-pats doing just that and can see how we are becoming one community.

Jack and Debbie

I would like to share a couple of specific examples that have been very positive.    Jack and Debbie Moss arrived a little over 2 years ago.  Debbie has been active in helping the children in some of the villages in the mountains around Cota and is also working with the Institute of Children and Families under Provincial Director Cesar Pérez, who is running a program called “Da Dignidad” … give dignity.  The main objective of the program is to decrease poverty in children, adolescents, the elderly and the disabled.  Jack has become the communications focal point for the ex-pat community through his ex-pat email list and updates which I find to be a great service and very helpful in knowing what is happening across the community.  If you would like to get on his mailing list you can contact him at intheandes@gmail.com

Dan

In his role on the Communications Committee for English-speaking Residents of Cotacachi, Dan Delgado has done an excellent job of providing insights and helpful information about Cota which has helped me feel more connected to the community.

In the coming months I will introduce you to others that are helping in the community.

Till next week

Vá com Deus

No 86

Total Views 34,528